Western Australia 2023

 Yoga and stretching as our last Australian sun rises. Then we venture briefly into the rough seas. A bit if a washing machine experience but still warm and exhilarating. Packing doesn’t seem to take too long and we head off at about 9.30am. We stop at Yanchep National Park and see koalas. Not really in the wild but in a sort of nature reserve as they are endangered. A pleasant stroll around the lake feeling rather warm. Then on to the Sandelford Winery in the Swan Valley where I’ve reserved a table for lunch. An idyllic oasis on the outskirts of Perth and only 15 minutes to our van drop off. I manage a bit of wine tasting and then we enjoy the most delicious lunch Al fresco on the terrace overlooking the vines. The van drop off is easy and then it’s only 5 minutes in a taxi to the airport. We have quite a few hours to kill but our flight takes off on time at 19.20 and we manage to get a spare seat between us again! The 17 hour flight is okay really. Binge watching and a reasonable...

 I wake to the sound of the waves crashing against the sand bar. It may be too rough for swimming today. Still warm and sunny and the wind has died so I manage some yoga before breakfast. We walk up the Moore River admiring some of the homes perched on the banks some with glorious views. This is a lovely tranquil place. We gather the population is 150 rising to 4000 in popular holiday season. We suspect many houses are second homes. The river trail takes us up river until we see the sand dunes meeting the river on the other side. Back for a bit of reading on the beach and then lunch by the van and some shade. An osprey soars the thermals and flocks of pied cormorants fly overhead. The day passes and we’re now awaiting the sunset on our last evening with a beer in hand. 

 Up before the sun rises , so just before 6. Beach for exercises though a bit slopey for yoga.  We hire electric bikes from the guy who runs the coffee kiosk and zoom off along the newly built Turquoise Way which extends for 12 km along the stunning coast. We cycle all the way to the Hill River with its tannic tea coloured water and the usual sandbar across the mouth. Naked swimming in the turquoise sea and shell collecting from the white sand.  After lunch by the van we head off. An hour and a half’s drive along the Indian Ocean road takes us to Guilderton. A lovely site by the Moore river and sea. Ospreys fly around the estuary. No electricity or water on site when we arrive so bottled water hand outs. We decide to help out by drinking beer and wine. 

  There definitely seems a bit of an autumnal feel this morning as we have breakfast and pack up again. We drive south intending to walk in the Leseuer National Park but we come across a long stretch of unsealed road which is too bumpy to tolerate in this large van so we abandon the plan and stop at Green Head instead, part of the turquoise coast. We enjoy a coffee before walking along a newly formed coastal path covering 3 bays. We see an osprey with a fish in its mouth and some oyster catchers and terns. Then on to our next stop at Jurien Bay just along the coast. The campsite is rather disappointing and we are overlooking the IGA supermarket! Might have been useful except we are well stocked and nearing the end of our travels. A stroll to get out bearings and a cool beer in the jetty cafe before lunch back at base. Then a few hours trying to find shelter from a rather fierce cross wind in the sand dunes. The sea is very clear and refreshing. Simon watches a dolphin.   We ar...

 Sunny and still as we have breakfast amongst the tamarisk trees. We leave just after 8 to walk along the Irwin River. First we walk along the beach then across the mouth of the river, which is easy as it’s a sandbar then along the northern bank. Really lovely walk . Lots of black swans in the lagoon.  We cross the river at a bridge and then walk back along the south side to a boardwalk near the lagoon behind the beach. Lots of fowl and cormorants. Quick dip in the turquoise sea, this is the turquoise coast after. all, then iced latte by the van. Then to the beach for reading and  swimming. Not much shade by our van as we are facing North. All their solar panels face North like ours face South. Another oddity of being upside down! Another impressive sunset. Getting quite blasé now about these!

We start the day with Yoga, skipping and stretching on the beach before breakfast and then we pack up and head into the city of Geraldton. We park near the harbour in a designated RV park and walk along the seafront. Quite industrial in parts but the esplanade is tasteful and there are a number of joggers on the trail and swimmers in the town bay. We get to the museum and are the first ones in at 9.30. Actually very interesting with a 3D film of the wrecks of a German warship and a the Australian ship Sydney that had a short lived and mainly catastrophic battle in WW2 with no Australian survivors. Another display told the story of the Batavia, another shipwreck on the nearby Albrolhos Islands on the 17thC involving mutiny and general nastiness. There was also information on aboriginal history, shells and wildlife so we spend an interesting hour. Then coffee at Salt Dush where we book a table for lunch. Geraldton Art Gallery is quite challenging with an exhibition on tattoos but also so...

 Up at 6, on the road by 7:15. A long drive today. We visit Eagles’ Bluff and walk along the boardwalk overlooking Denham Sound. No dugongs to be seen.  On and on we drive along the never ending  straight road from Kalbarri. We cross the 26th parallel (there’s a sign marking the North West of Australia). Eventually we reach the turn off to Endless Loop and then on to join the main North West Coastal Highway. A coffee stop at a P. Like all these there are too many flies to venture outside for too long.  Another similar stop by the Murchison river. Hot and flyey.  Eventually we reach Geraldton and decide pretty quickly that this is a one night sort of place.  Down to the beach. Great sunset. BBQ lamb for supper. No flies down here!

 A half an hour drive takes us across to Monkey Mia where we pay 20 dollars to enter the marine reserve. Dolphin experiences are a popular tourist destination and we join a throng on the boardwalk at the beachfront awaiting the arrival of the dolphins. Allegedly they arrive at 7.45am every day and sure enough they do… or soon after anyway. A mother and young calf bottlenose dolphin are very happy to show off in the shallow waters in exchange for a few fish which we are told is just a snack / reward and only 10% of their daily intake and is not therefore interfering with nature. It is all part of marine research. Then an iced coffee and a day spent reading and relaxing mainly in the shade of a large umbrella by the resort’s swimming pool which we are surprised to find is included for our 20 dollars. A spot of lunch in the cafe and then back to base for tea waiting for the temperature to drop. It must have been in the high 30s today…