Monday 6 March: to Denham

 We set off soon after 7.30am and reach the far end of the Kalbarri National Park to do the final two view points of the Murchison River Gorge. We’re almost the only ones here and the early morning sun enhances the colour of the red sandstone. There is more water in the river here and we walk down to the river’s edge seeing a kangaroo on the way. 

The main road north is long… and straight… and mainly empty. The occasional road train thunders passed in the other direction. We brew a coffee in a hot lay-by… staying inside to avoid the flies. We turn off along Shark Bay Road which is also very straight and seems to go on forever. Stopping first at Hamelin Pool, famous for stromatolites, descendants of the earliest life forms on earth. A boardwalk is supposed to lead us to the viewing point but it was destroyed by a cyclone in 2021 and has yet to be replaced. As we are alone Simon ignores all advice and goes under the fence to take photos. They may impress some…! Next stop is Shell Bay. A massive stretch of white sand that is literally made from whole and fragments of shell. Blindingly white. It’s very low tide and we walk miles to try and swim in knee deep very warm, very salty water. Eventually we reach Denham and find our campsite and pitch which is perched above the sea with a glorious view. A late lunch in the shade and a a potter into town before yoga and stretches on the beach. Simon barbecues steak while we watch the sun setting and Venus and Jupiter light the night sky.